A famous McLaren Vale winery now boasts Italian magic, writes Tony Love

The Advertiser – Wednesday, February 17, 2010

Today we’ll speak only Italian.  The words, a wicked smile, and a jab in the ribs come from prominent Italian businessman Don Totino, who owns the food-and-wine distribution company Festival City. Don also owns a wine company, Totino, based in the Adelaide Hills, and in the past two years he has joined three other southern Italian-Australian business identities in breathing life back into Haselgrove, set in the midriff of the McLaren Vale wine region.

The Haselgrove family brand has a history stretching back a century, but in the past two decades it struggled and found itself taken over by Bankwest in 2002, until early 2008. Grasping the potential of the name, Read the rest of this page »

1 H by Haselgrove 2008 Shiraz
$9-$12
The start-up range from this McLaren Vale collection, with a solid wave of shiraz fruit and lifted fragrance, as well as earthy touches and complexity. The H level cabernet merlot is quite a serious wine, too.

2 Haselgrove Primo Taglio (First Cut) 2008 Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon
$15-$19
Everything you could want from this blend, with lemon curd and tropical juices coming together as a classic dry white with a spike of soursob.

3 Haselgrove 2007 IL Padrone Shiraz
$50
Fruit from gnarly old vines goes into making this bright, beautiful shiraz with elements of coffee and mocha underneath a lovely violet lifted aroma. Lively, fresh and vivacious.

The Advertiser – Wednesday, February 17, 2010

In 2008 the business was acquired by four Italian-Australian wine stalwarts:  Don Totino, Don Luca, Tony Carrocci and Steve Maglieri.  The wines are released in four ranges:  at the top, the Il Padrone The Boss Series; next the Bella Vigna (Beautiful Vineyard) Series; then the Primo Taglio First Cut Series; and at the entry level, the ‘H’ by Haselgrove Series.  Exports to Europe and Asia.

Four Glasses out of Five

Bella Vigna McLaren Vale Shiraz 2008

Right in the mainstream of McLaren Vale style; sumptuous blackfruits, dark chocolate and cedar are intertwined with ripe tannins; good length and balance.  Screwcap.  14.5% alc.  Rating 93.  To 2020.  $25

Il Padrone The Boss McLaren Vale Shiraz 2007

Some colour development; the complex bouquet of blackfruits, mocha oak and dark chocolate leads into a medium- to full-bodied palate with more of the same; a barrel selection, but all new French oak, made only in exceptional vintages – curious, because ‘07 was certainly not exceptional, rather the reverse.  However, hyperbole to one side, this is a very good wine.  Screwcap.  14.5% alc.  Rating 93.  To 2027.  $48

Bella Vigna Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2009

Light straw-green; a thoroughly appealing mix of citrus/lime and tropical fruits; the finish lingering and long in the mouth.  Screwcap.  12% alc.  Rating 90.  To 2012.  $20